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| Pakistan Has 150 Mountains More than 7000 Meters High and World 2nd Highest as K-2 |
1. LAST CHALLENGE TO CONQUER IN WINTER K2 SECOND HIGHEST IN WORLD MOUNTAIN :
Will the most dangerous mountain of Karakorum and the planet ever be climbed in winter? In these days, two teams proceed in parallel on the Sperone degli Abruzzi to try the business
Two expeditions are currently on the K2 (8,611 m) to attempt the climb of this eight thousand, so far inviolate in the coldest season. If they complete the impossible task, they will have solved one of the big problems of mountaineering: the first winter ascent of the second highest mountain on the planet.
"You can not imagine how much more difficult it is to climb the K2 in winter than spring or summer," explains Basque Alex Txikon to Andrew Bisharat of National Geographic , in an interview from the Base Camp (4,960 m) . Txikon is the head of the Spanish expedition that also includes Polish and Nepalese climbers. The other team is made up of a group of elite alpinists from Russia, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, led by Vassily Pivtsov . "It was a big challenge to reach only the base camp , " says Txikon, referring to the 60-mile trek to get to the 8,000 feet, through rugged snow-covered mountain valleys.
The expeditions are working on the Spur of the Abruzzi , the way chosen by both teams to reach the summit. They are equipping the course in parallel and setting up the high fields. Currently everyone is at the CB to regain strength and looking forward to more favorable weather conditions.
The K2, which straddles the border between Pakistan and China, is about two and a half meters lower than Everest, but is considered the hardest and most dangerous mountain on the planet. Unlike the "roof of the world", all sides of the K2 are extremely steep and subject to frequent falls of boulders and avalanches. Among the major obstacles, the infamous "Collo di Bottiglia", a very dangerous couloir, at about 8200 meters, where in 2008 11 alpinists lost their lives following the collapse of a serac.
Of the 14 mountains over 8,000 meters, the K2 remains the only peak still untouched during the winter. "I can not say it's the last challenge on the 8,000," says Txikon. "But it's one of the last great challenges."
Txikon is one of the most experienced and ambitious mountaineers in the world. In 2016, with Simone Moro and the Pakistani Ali Sadpara, he completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters), a mountain attempted more than 30 times in the winter, before being won.
2. IGLOSS SAVES FROM EXTREME COLD
Txikon's team at the K2 CB built three large igloos. Inside, the temperature is 10-15 degrees higher than in the tents, moreover they offer a greater shelter from the exasperating noise of the incessant winds. According to Basque, the best rest conditions offered by the igloos could facilitate recovery and allow better performance.
With Txikon, there is Galician Felix Criado. The two mountaineers are accompanied by eight Sherpas, including Nuri Sherpa, Hallung Sherpa, Chhepal Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa .
"Sherpas are much stronger than many known climbers," Txikon says ironically. This group took part with the Basque in two consecutive winter expeditions on Everest, in the last two years, which were not successful. However, they have accumulated a lot of experience, climbing together in extreme conditions. Having been rejected twice by Everest in winter, this year the team wanted to try a new goal to keep motivation high.
K2, winter 2019. Part of the A.Txikon team at the CB. Source: National Geographic
The team also joined three Poles Paweł Dunaj, Marek Klonowski and Waldemar Kowalewski . Climbing 8,000 in winter has now become a Polish national hobby; just think that 10 of the 13 winter climbs on the 8,000 were made by Polish mountaineers.
Unfortunately there were some defections: Kowalewski, who joined the expedition last, was the victim of an injury, hit the collarbone by a rock while descending to Camp 1 and left the expedition in recent days, as well as Marek Klonowski, who has retired due to a heart problem.
Two other members of the Txikon team, Jon Barredo and Eva Robles (the only woman in the expedition), both in the approaching trek (non-mountaineers), were evacuated by helicopter because Barredo had knee pains and Robles decided to accompany him .
The Spanish-Polish-Nepalese team arrived at the base camp on January 16th and on the 28th of the month, and had already equipped up to Campo 2, at 6700 meters , on the Sperone Abruzzi, the normal route.
3. RUSSIANS & KAZAKH KYRGYZ EXPEDITION USES HYPERBARIC CHAMBER FOR CLIMBING K2 MOUNTAIN IN PAKISTAN
K2, winter 2019. Part of the Russian-Kazakh-Kyrgyz team of Vassily Pivtsov
Next to the Txikon team, exactly parallel to the Spur of the Abruzzi, is the expedition of mountaineers led by the Kazakh Vassily Pivtsov , one of the few mountaineers in the world to have all 14,000 8000s , reached without additional oxygen. Txikon claims that the teams are not in direct competition with each other, although probably every mountain climber hopes to become the first to reach the summit of K2 in winter.
The team led by Pivtsov arrived at the base camp on January 15 and brings together some of the world's highest altitude mountaineers, including the Kazakhs Dmitriy Muravyov and Tursunaly Aubakirov ; the Russians Artem Braun, Roman Abildaev, Konstantin Shepelin ; and Kyrgyz Michael Danichkin . The group struggled to find a sponsor, so they raised funds through a crowdfunding operation and selling t-shirts through their Instagram account.
Pivtsov's team has fixed Txikon's independent ropes and is making rapid progress. Pivtsov and Braun set up Camp 2 at 6800 meters of Sperone Abruzzi, where they spent a night to acclimatise.
Adam Bielecki, who last winter took part in the failed Polish expedition on K2, recognizes the team's skills "Do not go to K2 in winter if you are not a true mountaineer" .
However, he believes that the chances of success are scarce: "It's a really difficult mountain to climb in winter - he says - it's the worst place on Earth. No team has ever exceeded 7,650 m , and with the top at 8,611 m, those last meters will be very tough. " cold and wind, among the greatest dangers
Next to the Txikon team, exactly parallel to the Spur of the Abruzzi, is the expedition of mountaineers led by the Kazakh Vassily Pivtsov , one of the few mountaineers in the world to have all 14,000 8000s , reached without additional oxygen. Txikon claims that the teams are not in direct competition with each other, although probably every mountain climber hopes to become the first to reach the summit of K2 in winter.
The team led by Pivtsov arrived at the base camp on January 15 and brings together some of the world's highest altitude mountaineers, including the Kazakhs Dmitriy Muravyov and Tursunaly Aubakirov ; the Russians Artem Braun, Roman Abildaev, Konstantin Shepelin ; and Kyrgyz Michael Danichkin . The group struggled to find a sponsor, so they raised funds through a crowdfunding operation and selling t-shirts through their Instagram account.
Pivtsov's team has fixed Txikon's independent ropes and is making rapid progress. Pivtsov and Braun set up Camp 2 at 6800 meters of Sperone Abruzzi, where they spent a night to acclimatise.
Adam Bielecki, who last winter took part in the failed Polish expedition on K2, recognizes the team's skills "Do not go to K2 in winter if you are not a true mountaineer" .
However, he believes that the chances of success are scarce: "It's a really difficult mountain to climb in winter - he says - it's the worst place on Earth. No team has ever exceeded 7,650 m , and with the top at 8,611 m, those last meters will be very tough. " cold and wind, among the greatest dangers
Cold is one of the most dangerous challenges to face; on the mountain the temperatures drop to -65 °C. In such conditions, even the smallest mistake can have catastrophic consequences: a fallen glove can lead to freezing in a few minutes.
But the wind is the true killer, one of the greatest difficulties encountered in winter compared to the summer season. In winter, the Karakorum group, where K2 is located, is subject to stronger currents than the Himalayas. The gusts can reach the strength of the hurricanes and "snatch" the climbers from the mountain walls in an instant. This explains in part why the 8,000 in Nepal, including Everest, were the first mountains to be conquered in winter, while more than 20 years have passed before the eight thousand of Karakoram were taken into account as winter targets.
Another significant factor of difficulty, which is added in the winter on the K2, is the little snow present on the mountain. The strong winds sweep it away, leaving behind naked rock and friable ice that makes the climb considerably more technical and slower, exposing the climbers to the cold cold for longer periods.
Winter is also a period of low pressure, which translates into less oxygen expenditure than summer high-pressure climate windows. None of the climbers plan to use oxygen to reach the summit, although the Txikon team is carrying oxygen tanks in case an emergency occurs that requires a rapid descent.
Cory Richards, National Geographic photographer and the only American to have climbed an 8000 in winter, the Gasherbrum II (8,035 meters), with Denis Urubko and Simone Moro, in 2011, says: "All the difficulties of climbing a 8000 during the summer season must be multiplied by 10. "
" Climbing an 8000 in winter is not fun," explains Bielecki . The strong motivation that drives mountaineers is "the satisfaction of doing something that no one has ever done before - assuming it is possible to do so."
According to Txikon, to be successful on K2 "you have to be smart, fast, strong enough, have respect for the mountains, for these remote places and for the local population. You must have empathy and a great team. Never forget to be patient, and always remember that true success is coming back alive ".
Cory Richards, National Geographic photographer and the only American to have climbed an 8000 in winter, the Gasherbrum II (8,035 meters), with Denis Urubko and Simone Moro, in 2011, says: "All the difficulties of climbing a 8000 during the summer season must be multiplied by 10. "
" Climbing an 8000 in winter is not fun," explains Bielecki . The strong motivation that drives mountaineers is "the satisfaction of doing something that no one has ever done before - assuming it is possible to do so."
According to Txikon, to be successful on K2 "you have to be smart, fast, strong enough, have respect for the mountains, for these remote places and for the local population. You must have empathy and a great team. Never forget to be patient, and always remember that true success is coming back alive ".
Meanwhile, time is running out , The time limit for an undisputed winter ascent is 28 February 2019, the last day of the meteorological winter.
However, some mountaineers, including Txikon, argue that a summit reached before March 20, the end of the astronomical winter, would still apply.
On the K2, the climbers eagerly await another window of good weather, working at the CBA and taking care of the ills
Last Sunday, Dmitry Muravjow, Konstantin Szepelin and Mikhail Danichkin, whose conditions seem to have improved, transported some necessary equipment and supplies to the K2 Advanced Base Camp , before returning to base at night. The climb was also intended to improve the conditions of the route to the ABC.
The weather is still not good to work in the high parts of the mountain, but apparently the team of Pivtsov and Brown wants to make the most of the next window of good weather. It seems, in fact, that they are preparing for a difficult push on the mountain.
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| Portable Flexible Hyperbaric Chamber |
4. HIGH ALTITUDE PULMONARY EDEMA & CEREBRAL EDEMA TREATMENT BY HYPERBARIC CHAMBER
Meanwhile, the Russian-Kazakh-Kyrgyz expedition is being prepared with a Potable Hyperbaric chamber treatment ( Gameo Bag )
The last days at the base camp have been used to regenerate the body (taking care of the cough) and to regain its strength. The team received a new supply of drugs in recent days and each member of the expedition also underwent an experimental "treatment" in the Gamow case, a "portable hyperbaric chamber" designed by Igor Gamov (portable hyperbaric bag - Gamow bag), very useful device in high-altitude shipments.
It is usually used to combat the severe symptoms of altitude sickness. The principle of its operation is very simple: the air is introduced into the chamber by means of a mechanical pump. The person inside the Gamow Bag is thus subjected to a greater environmental pressure, compared to the outside, comparable to a rapid descent up to 1500-2500 m. In this way, the concentration of oxygen increases in the air.
However, this treatment raised some concerns. If the mountaineers claim to reach a peak without additional oxygen, ie without artificial help to reduce the effects of high altitude, can they use a hyperbaric chamber at the base camp? Polish magazine Wspinanie talked about it with mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki, asking for his opinion:
"The use of the" Gamow bag "by the Pivtsov team is a bit strange, because I have always treated this equipment as an emergency solution, used only in extreme situations - explains Wielicki - However, I would not criticize or condemn the method, because it is only one of the small facilities, like other various aids used in the high mountains. It seems to me that it is not worth discussing too much - the mountain will decide everything anyway. "
5. HOW HYPERBARIC CHAMBERS IS USED IN MOUNTAINEERING
CLICK HERE TO SEE VIDEO
In the short video, the treatment in the "portable hyperbaric chamber" to which the members of the Russian-Kazakh-Kyrgyz expedition have undergone ahead of the next exit on the mountain.
Gameo Bag or Flexible Portable Hyperbaric Oxygen Chamber Treatment has been a New Phenomenon being explored by the Adventure Mountaineers for climbing world Highest Mountains .
Historically the Pakistan Army has been Using this Kind of Chambers to Treat HAPE and HACE , known as High Altitude Pulmonary Edema and High Altitude Cerebral Edema
6. HOW HYPERBARIC CHAMBERS IS USED IN HIGHEST BATTLEFIELD ON PLANET EARTH
Pakistan army & Indian Army is involved in Battle Field at Siachen Glacier which is Highest Battle Field on Planet Earth at around 5,500 -6,000 Meter Height which is Around 20,000 Feet Plus , at this Maddening Battle Field countless Deaths have Occurred which are Classified and unknown.
This Battlefield is on Border of Nuclear Powers like India , Pakistan & China who Border are Found here among the Roof top of the World as eight Thousanders and 150 Seven Thousanders .
Pakistan Hyperbaric Medical Society and its Doctors have been Involved in Treating the Army and Navy Personal in this Kind of Scenario and it is very Interesting that International Repute Mountaineers are now Involved in Using Hyperbaric Chambers for this Kind of Mountain Climbing .
Here is More Info About it Please Click Here
Thanking in Anticipation ,
Sincerely,
Dr. Khurrum Shaukat Yousafzai
Director Ksy Hyperbarics Consultancy,
Founder Hyperbaric Medical Society Pakistan,
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